Vintage Helvetia Gents Wristwatch - Full Service.
- Alan Wood
- Apr 7
- 2 min read
This a vintage Hevetia wristwatch. It was given to me for a full service.

A full service includes:
Inspection of the timepiece
A full strip down of every part
On a vintage watch like this, a pre clean. Involving cleaning the jewels and holes with peg wood
A professional cleaning and rinsing process
Reassembly of the movement
Oiling of the necessary parts
A new mainspring is necessary
Adjustment for timekeeping
Testing over a period of time for accuracy and power reserve
A light polish of the case and glass
Reassembley of the movement dial and hands
Recasing and further testing
Unfortunately the dial on this watch is badly stained, and will require a dial restoration.
Some vintage watches can have further issues, and it is worth checking the rest of my blog for some projects I have undertaken.
Helvetia watches, a brand name registered in 1892 by the Swiss watch company Louis Brandt & Frere, had a rich history, evolving from producing high-quality lever movement watches to supplying military watches during WWII and later developing shock-protected sports watches.
Here's a more detailed look at the Helvetia watch company:
Early Years (1892-1920s):
Louis Brandt & Frere, later known as La Generale Watch Co., registered "Helvetia" as a brand name in 1892.
The company focused on producing high-quality lever movement watches, sold under the Helvetia name.
In 1906, they built a new factory in Bienne with offices and workrooms for 104 workers.
Helvetia produced a range of fixed lug "Trench" watches in the early 20th century.
By the 1890s, the General Watch Company was producing more than 100,000 watches per year.
The company produced minute repeating wristwatches in 1892, which was way ahead of its time.
1920s-1940s:
In the 1920s, Helvetia started producing watches with shock protection for miners.
They introduced their first waterproof and shockproof wristwatch in 1929.
During WWII, Helvetia supplied watches to the British and German armed forces.
Helvetia developed and manufactured their own in-house movements, often at the forefront of research and development.
They introduced watches with central seconds rather than having seconds displayed separately in a sub dial.
Helvetia also produced distinctive dress watches after the war.
1940s-1970s:
In the late 1940s, the company began producing large wristwatches, including solid gold examples.
Helvetia developed the Helvetia Stop and Sport chronograph wristwatches using their existing movements.
In 1948, the company officially changed its name to Montres Helvetia or The Helvetia Watch Company.
In the 1960s, Helvetia changed their logo and added model names to their dials.
In 1973, the original Helvetia Watch Co. was closed down, and Silvana SA was renamed The Helvetia Watch Company.
Later Years:
In 1979, the companies within the SGT group formally amalgamated and adopted the SGT name.
Helvetia was chosen as the name for SGT's premier line of watches.
Today, Helvetia watches are sold on a much smaller scale through a jeweller in Vienna, Austria.
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